Looking North/West from the Southeast Glacier


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Note: These three images stretch out quite wide. Please pan your browser to view the full set. Looking at the "three-toed" buttress from the Southeast Glacier, the two standard chutes are easy to pick out in the right panel of these three photos. All the way to the right is Secor's chute, wide, relatively shallow, and very blocky climbing. Just to the left of Secor's chute is a narrow, steep, and climber-unfriendly chute. Been there, done that, never want to see that Teflon-slick slate again!

Owen's chute is at the right-hand edge of the left panel, where the third "toe" of the buttress projects out into the SE Glacier. It is not visible from this angle, since you climb to the end of the "toe" and basically make a U-turn to get to it. It is, however, at the shallowest angle of the three and presents an eminently-doable second-class route from the glacier to the upper bowl.



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Here is a bit better view of Secor's chute, from a little farther up the SE Glacier. The chute heads up dead-center in this shot, and the blockiness of the terrain is quite obvious. In addition, depending on the amount of snowfall and direction of drifting, that headwall of snow visible at the top of the chute can be threateningly steep. Given the exposure to all of those blocks near the top of the rocky stretch, climbing even a short stretch of 50-degree snow might be somewhat intimidating if you head up that route. Still, it is another alternative.